Wednesday, June 20, 2007

About to board for the penultimate time

As we wait to board the flight for the 18 hour journey from Hong Kong to New York (via Vancouver, BC) - we found ourselves in a familiar place. The international terminal at Hong Kong Airport, where 27 days ago we waited to board a flight to Singapore. We currently stand at the same cafe using the same computers we used May 26. The last month has been a whirlwind of adventures, experiences, memories, frustrations, and comraderie. We considered posting top ten lists, "best of" lists, and favorite memories, but I think scrolling through the blog covered all of the bests.
It has been an amazing time, full of stories we will never forget, stories we will tell for years to come, and stories we won't/shouldn't tell for years to come. We had great times planning blog posts and using the blog to let our loyal readers know we were still alive and kicking.
I hope you have enjoyed coming along for the ride - we certainly had a great time.

Gideon

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Brace yourselves folks, we're comin back

Our last of many stops finds us yet again in the magical land of Singapore, where we will depart on the last journey of our trip, the long one back home. This posting is to warn all you readers about our respective states of appearance upon arrival.

Neither Gid or I have shaved in over 30 days. Luckily neither of us are real men yet, so there is nothing to really worry about there. I'd say we all smell pretty ripe; I know for sure that Coles hasn't showered in nearly a fortnight and none of us have changed clothes in about a week. I ran out of toothpaste on an island in Thailand, that was 9 days ago. I am fairly certain that there is a colony of foreign insects living in or around the scar on Gideon's head.

Joey is now fluent in Malay, Khmer, and Thai, while the rest of us have lost all language skills and exclusively communicate with hand gestures and various grunts. At first, we used chopsticks in lieu of forks and knives to eat, but have since regressed to using our bare hands and shoveling the food in.

When we get back to the states it is likely that it will take a week or so to get back into driving in an orderly fashion and not holding on for our lives as we try to scribble out our wills. We will definitely scoff at any meal over $1.32, and I may sit on the corner in Bedford and beg passersby for Thai Baht; not because I am broke, but because no one else has started doing it yet, it is a totally untouched market.

So in closing, I wish I had been able to post on this blog more often, maybe next time I get over to SE Asia. Only 70 hours of travel and 25 or so thousand miles until home; at least we get free snacks on the flight (and drinks)

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Saak Mu Bai

Gideon got "saak mu bai"-ed again today. What does it mean to get "saak mu bai"-ed, you ask?

Well, I'll tell you.

When we were in Cambodia, our second stop was the town of Siem Reap, from where we went for two days to Angkor Wat. Angkor, as you know, consists of the remnants of the ancient Khmer empire.

On our first morning there, we saw the sunrise over Angkor Wat, then headed to another temple. When we got to that temple, we heard some loud screaming from our left. Evan and I looked over, and saw a small Buddhist woman beckoning us over. Not exactly sure what was going on, we went.

First, she handed us three sticks of incense for good luck. We bowed three times: once for ourselves, once for mother and father, and once for friends (we learned this later from a local boy, as this woman did not speak English). She was a rather forceful woman, and would not stop until we had done so.

In the middle of this scene, Gideon comes walking up and is asked to perform the same task. He does, bowing three times in front of the temple with the incense.

As soon as he is finished, the woman starts yelling at us in Khmer to give her money, pointing at a plastic wrapped U.S. dollar that is on her stand in front of us. Evan and I started to give Cambodian money, and she threw it back at us. She was increasingly persistent to receive our U.S. dollars.

Evan gives in first, and I found a dollar soon afterwards. We were quickly dismissed once we had paid. Gideon, on the other hand, refuses to pay, because all he had was a $20 bill. He offers 2000 Cambodia riel (50 cents US) and is the woman screamed over and over "No, no, no, no" andn continued to point at the laminated US dollar.

Finally, Gideon gives up and decides to walk away, not realizing that doing so would equate to a massive twist of fate. At first she wouldn't let him leave, but once he did, she was screaming after him, over and over again "Saak mu bai, saak mu bai, saak mu bai." We jokingly decided at the time that she was cursing his next seven generations.

Since then, there has been another hypothesis: Gideon must undergo seven trials, seven separate "Saak mu bais" before the curse can be lifted.

The first trial? The head trauma. The first is always the worst (stitches are out, by the way).

The second? Going to the shower in Kuala Lumpur and somehow finding the only one without hot water, our first hot water shower in weeks.

The third? Being latched to by more leeches today than the rest of us combined (3).

The final four await. We are currently searching for an antidote. We'll see what happens.

Attack of the Killer Leeches

Taman Negara National Park is home to many exotic animals which Americans such as ourselves do not have the opportunity to see in their natural habitat. Among these are tapirs, gibbons, sun bears, siamangs, leopards, and even elephants. There are also a variety of fish, birds, and insects native to the jungle, displaying a broad range of majestic colors and unique behaviors that fascinate the wandering trekker for hours on end.
And then there's the leech, the bloodsucking demon-spawn of the jungle underworld. We were warned of their prevalence here while spending time in the Perhentians, where we encountered a friendly group of Brits with numerous battle wounds from these hellish creatures. Locals also told tales of how leeches emerge after heavy rains, wandering the jungles in search of vertebrate blood as zombies in search of fresh brains. We trudged boldly on, though, ignoring the warnings of both foreigners and locals, and arrived at the gates of Taman Negara in high hopes, as the locals told us there had been no rains for several days.
Then, last night, it rained... all night. Even though we remained optimistic, our hopes were dashed by the inclement weather. The day started out simple enough. After a nice walk on the canopy bridge, a leech landed on my finger (flying from some unknown destination above). I asked Evan if it was a leech, but he said no, it looked more like an inchworm. I concurred and flicked the creature harmlessly to the ground. Little did I know that the creature only appeared inchworm-ish because it had not yet filled itself with the sweet nectar of life that is human blood.
Gideon was the first to be struck. Atop a hill, we paused to check ourselves and found one gorging itself on his leg. Then another a mere hour later on his heel, fatter than the feast as it appeared to have been enjoying its meal for some time. Then again at lunch, somehow a leech had burrowed into his shoe and bitten through the sock, where it could dine unnoticed for quite some time. Lunch time count: Gideon 3, everyone else 0. The afternoon evened the count up a bit. There were many close encounters, leeches would jump from trees but spoil their surprise attack by making a faint sound when they landed on a shoe or an arm. I was struck in the heel and again on the calf, where a leech must have been for a number of hours. By the time of his discovery he was too fat to even roll over on the ground. All told, there were only five bites, but many more may have come if we had not taken the necessary precautions.
The worst part about being leeched is not any pain or blood loss, although there is a significant amount of bleeding after a leech is removed. More than these, it is the feeling of robbery and violation afterwards. One's blood is one's life, and to have it drained by a non-sentient leaves one feeling very cold and vulnerable. Our few, minor wounds will heal rather quickly, but the terror instilled in us may last a life time.

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Back in Action

Welp, we're back in the land of Internets, and were sorry to find that the toopoortogotoeurope.blogspot.com Crew appears to be dominating us in the so-called Blogatition.

But, when you have Internet that is faster than 56k, it's a little easier/less frustrating to post.

We are outside the airport in Khota Bharu, Malaysia (east coast), having just returning to the mainland after a four-day stay on the little island of Pulau Perhentian. After an incredible time there, it is pretty easy to see why it would be named one of the top-10 beaches in the world. The water was crystal clear well beyond 40-50 feet, the sand was as white as I've ever seen it, and after one night in a bungalow without light, we found a cool four-person room that actually had air-conditioning.

So, that's where we've been. Not too much happened over these days, I guess. Coles and I went scuba diving one morning for the first time and had a blast. Gideon hasn't washed his hair in years. Evan has decided never to wash his hair again because he likes the way that it stays wherever he puts it. And we all managed to avoid getting sunburned after a number of awkward sunscreen applications to a partner's back.

Tonight we fly to Kuala Lumpur, arriving near to midnight local time. Then tomorrow morning, Gideon will finally get his stitches out. By tomorrow evening, we hope to be at the entry point to the Malaysian jungle/rain forest (called Taman Negara). We've been told to watch out for leeches.

On Sunday night or maybe Monday, we will return to Kuala Lumpur, spend a day there, and then fly to Singapore on Tuesday morning.

On Wednesday, we fly back to the States.

It's amazing how quickly time has flown. Seems like ages since we first posted from Hong Kong. And I think I speak for everybody when I say that we are excited to share our pictures and stories.

Hope everyone is well. More to come. Coles is eating KFC from a food court at a Malaysian Airport as we speak. I think I might join him.

Monday, June 11, 2007

Heading to Paradise

We are heading to Paradise until Thursday night. Now all back to together (Evan back with the group), we are leaving for the Perhension Islands off the east coast of Malaysia, where there are no cars, and minimal internet access. Named a top ten beach in the world by Time magazine, we are going to find out for ourselves - judgement shall come shortly. Everyone is doing well, and if we find access out there we will be sure to be in touch, otherwise Friday will be our next chance to post.

Gideon

Sunday, June 10, 2007

A quick post...

I realized that I needed to correct a previous post. When I said that we "never felt unsafe or worried," I did not mean to include those first few minutes when we were temporarily scared out of our minds. So, I apologize.

As Gid said, all is well now. We meet Evan in about an hour and then take a ferry back to the mainland at 5pm (4am by most of you guys). After a 2.5 hour bus ride, we will hope on an 11-hour night/sleeper train to take us into Malaysia, where we plan a few more days on the western coast and on an island called Pulau Perhentian.

Jackie and Co., I will reveal the Asian trinket... As soon as I buy it. For now, there is still a current contest regarding the cost of Gideon's medical procedures.

Love to all.

Saturday, June 9, 2007

All is well --- Contest #2

All is well and I am doing fine. Thanks to Coles' and Joey's great help, wherewithall, and supervision they treated me quickly, and got me to the hospital safely, where the Thai medical staff performed superbly. I am pretty sure it is impossible in America to get to the ER and have five sutures and prescriptions filled within 30 minutes...but it worked out here.

According to former construction employee Coles the machine was a back-hoe rather than a bulldozer...one day Joey and I will learn about construction and manual labor.

Also the total for Coles' phone call was $29.09...at last check Jackie et. al. were closest, but the official winner will be announced when internet is faster/cheaper.

Not to be repetitive but again we found ourselves astonished by the pricing of things; this time a trip to the ER complete with 5 stitches and 2 prescription drugs filled (antibitotic and pain reliever). Again a to-be-determined Asian goodie is up for grabs for the closest guess to the final price.

Finally, I just wanted to thank Joey for posting yesterday's blog about the story. While I individually contacted loved ones, I asked him to give a recount for our loyal readers.

Again, all is well!!

Gideon

Friday, June 8, 2007

Gideon's Interesting Day

Because Internet is pretty expensive on this island we are on (Koh Phangan) and Gideon is sending a few other emails, he asked me to post a little story about today to the blog.

As a preface, these events really happened and are in no way part of a ploy to win the so-called "Blogatition" with Jackie and Co.

This morning we rented mopeds from a store down the street from our hotel ($4/day) and after a quick lesson, set out to expore the island. It is pretty desolate out here and easy going, so we were confident in our ability to drive safely around. Our goal was to hit two waterfalls, climb to the highest peak on the island, and be back on the beach by mid-afternoon.

After a stop and hike at a waterfall, we headed over to the trail that would lead us to the peak. We tried several times to figure out exactly how to go, and then were led by several locals to the actual trail across a stream. On the way, we had to cross through a construction site where nothing much seemed to be going on.

About 10 minutes into the hike, we decided not to proceed to the top, because the trail was not marked well and the jungle was very hot. So, we headed back toward the entrance, through the construction site.

On our way back down, Gideon and I followed Coles the way that we came, down a high dirt mound back toward a dirt road. Coles made it down the mound safely. I followed, with my eyes on the ground, and narrowly missed hitting my head on the scoop of a bull-dozer, saying something to the effect of "Whoa, look out" back to Gideon.

I turned around after I was at the bottom to be more specific about what my "Whoa, look out" was about, and watched him come down at a pretty good speed, hit his head on the scoop, and fall to the ground.

Blood appeared after a few seconds, and Gideon moved to the shade to let us look at the cut. Coles kept his wits about him (before and during the injury), pulling out a first-aid kit (thanks, Mrs. Jennings) and cleaning Gideon's cut and getting gauze to put on it.

Once we got a look at the cut, we decided that a trip to the island hospital was in order. A local who was helping us agreed. Luckily, we had seen the hospital earlier, so we had an idea where it was. We headed down the mountain to our bikes and Gideon hopped on the back of mine "Dumb and Dumber"-style while Coles led the way. As before, we were all wearing helmets.

We got to the hospital and were directed to the emergency room. After filling out a few forms, we followed Gideon into a room where he received five stitches.

All in all, each of us was very impressed with the entire operation. It could easily have been a small American hospital. Everyone was very helpful throughout the entire process and gave specific instructions for each of Gid's next steps. He will have it re-looked at on Sunday and the stitches removed one week from now. The plan is to be in Kuala Lumpur then, which should be a good place to get them out.

So, there you go. It was quite a day, but everything is fine now. One good thing: They didn't have to shave Gideon's head.

We were back on the beach at 6pm for sunset after a belated lunch.

I know that this makes everybody nervous, but please know that we never felt unsafe or worried during the entire experience. Love to all -- we will continue to keep you updated.

Oh, and there are light-hearted stories to come. I promise. Sorry for the long post.

On My Own...

Yesterday morning I set off alone to a tiny island called Koh Tao. I left the three other guys in the pre dawn hours still sleeping in their mosquito nets on Koh Pha-Ngan, and spent 700 Baht to taxi and ferry about 45 km away. The goal of my 4 day solo voyage is to cram in more dives per day than would usually be healthy; I'm off to a good start as I have spent 4.5 of the past 20 hours submerged.

I am at the Coral View Resort (www.coralview.net) on my own little beach and have the entire resort to myself because it is technically low season. If I had the ability to post pictures you all would be jealous of me.

I told Gid, Joey, and Coles I would see them on Sunday, so I will make my best effort at that time to put down my mango daquiri and roll out of my hammock to journey back south.

Wednesday, June 6, 2007

A contest...

Alright, here's a contest for anyone who is actually reading this thing.

We've already told you that Coles popped his credit card into a pay phone on our first day in Hong Kong and was charged "about $10."

Well, the true total just came through. I'll give you a clue: It's above $10.

If you are interested, please post your guesses for the cost of one phone call from Hong Kong to the U.S. when you pop your credit card into a pay phone on the street.

The closest guess will receive a cool Asian trinket, the details of which I will reveal when the winner is crowned.

Have fun, and good luck.

NOTE: We are not playing with "Price is Right" rules, so don't worry about overshooting. The closest absolute guess will win.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

A few more thoughts

I apologize for the abrupt ending yesterday, but my 20 minutes of internet time ran out. A few thoughts I didn't discuss:

The boulevard of broken backsides: Part of the trip from Siem Riep, Cambodia (Angkor Wat) to Bangkok included a 3.5 hour journey to the Cambodia border, where a total of 8 minutes was spent on paved roads. No joke we bounced around for 3.25 hours swerving between lanes that did not exist avoiding cattle, chickens, etc. We got out of the car with our brains scrambled and shaky bones. Rumor has it that the airlines pay the Cambodia government to keep the roads in such bad condition to increase air traffic...if only we had more money

The infrastructure/ability to make change/amount of time "chilling" theorem...I have developed a theory based on the countries we have visited, that the more infrastructure a country has, the greater their ability to make change. All jokes aside, it was impossible to use large bills in Vietnam and Cambodia because no one had change. Now that we have arrived in Thailand, where there is much more infrastructure, everyone can make change for us, who would have thought?? At the same time the number of locals "chilling", i.e. not working, is inversely related to the amount of infrastructure and ability to make change. This may be my big chance to make a name for myself...possibly more insights and research to come.

Joseph and I purchased custom tailored tuxedos today...quality to be determined...

Gideon

Monday, June 4, 2007

Some more thghouts...

Following up on Coles' post regarding phrases and terminology, I thought a few more were needed:

Cambodian traffic jam - Such a traffic jam can be caused by a number of factors, including flooding, construction (reshuffling of the dirt mounds), any number of animals in the road (cows more prevalent, but dogs, chickens, water buffalo have all been causes), mopeds that have fallen over in the mud, two busses trying to pass at once (insert any rediculously unlikely event inlcuding water, animals, no traffic rules, etc.). Truly unbelievable stuff...

'Squid' Pototao - Dont get me wrong, there are a number of words and phrases mispronounced by the locals, but this one stuck out and has become used by the group. Originally encountered in Vietnam, we were offered Squid Potato chips while boating on the Mekong River. Evan decided to smell it the chip, as he was weary of such a flavor. Turns out it was really sweet potato...with a simple mispronounciation. We have encountered the same mispronounciation many times, and have incorporated 'squid' to mean sweet in our daily diction.

Finally, as my internet time runs out, Evan wanted to me to let the readers know that he will post again - however because he must prewrite his blogs, and post later - he has not had a chance to orchestrate such preparation. He will post shortly to fulfill the needs of his unsatisfied readers.

Thailand

Everyone (our mothers) can breathe easy(er) now: We've made it to Bangkok, Thailand. More to come soon.

Saturday, June 2, 2007

Last night...


Obviously more pictures to come. But this one is from last night, at our hotel in Phnom Penh. We soon went to a street stand for food, which sent me immediately to the bathroom afterwards.

Mekong Delta


The Mekong Delta, near Vinh Long.

Hong Kong


An old picture from Hong Kong, as we crossed the Star Ferry toward Hong Kong Island.

Friday, June 1, 2007

Trip Phrases

I decided to end my conspicuous absence from the blog today by writing about some phrases we've come to use during our travels. Below is a brief summary of such slang.

"Rolling the Dice": To "roll the dice" is to take a chance by participating in some activity with which one is unfamiliar. This may involve ordering food or beverage at a restaurant with which you have no prior experience, often done by simply pointing at the picture of something that looks tasty. It also may involve crossing the street in the strange urban jungles of Vietnam or Cambodia, where traffic patterns follow no apparent pattern or law. Further, it may involve using some mode of public transport with operators who speak limited to no English, trusting that they, in their knowledge of the local surroundings, will guide you to your intended destination. There are numerous other examples of rolling the dice, some of which are omitted purposefully here.

"Free Smells": In Charlottesville, there is a sign posted outside of the sandwich shop Jimmy John's advertising free smells for those who enter, implying that one can enter their fine establishment and enjoy the scent of freshly baked breads. In the streets and markets of Vietnam and Cambodia, there are many free smells to be had, though a high majority of these are not nearly so pleasant as freshly baked bread. They may include dried foods and meats ( some of which can be identified and some of which cannot), fresh and not-so-fresh produce, fresh and not-so-fresh animal parts, and a host of other goods. What's most intriguing about "free smells" is that, while many prompt a gagging reflex from me and my fellow travelers, the locals seem to be impervious.

Cambodian Parallels: Cambodia is a very strange and foreign place, and many things here appear to be outside our realm of experience. However, when one compares Cambodia to life back at home by adding the word "Cambodian" to an object familiar in our own daily lives, things become a bit more familiar. For example, there are no taxis of the traditional sort here, but there are many "Cambodian taxis," which of course is a motorbike with a four person carriage attached to the back. Similarly, a "Cambodian minivan" is a four person motorbike with a flatbed trailing it, on which many individuals and goods can be hauled. A "Cambodian barbeque" apparently consists of crickets cooked and covered in barbecue sauce (of which we have yet to indulge). We discover more Cambodian parallels every hour in this strange land.

"Coles-focused": To be "Coles-focused" refers to intense concentration of the achievement of a certain task or goal. This often involves ignoring all other tasks at hand, and may result in the making of rash and harmful decisions to accomplish said task or goal. Case in point, in Hong Kong I became "Coles-focused" on calling home to let my parents and girlfriend know that I had survived the flight and was safe in the hotel. Becoming frustrated at the limited availability of calling cards, I made the rash and harmful decision of putting my credit card directly into a phone booth to make the calls necessary, whereupon I was charged ten dollars per call. One also commonly becomes "Coles-focused" on relieving oneself, often resulting in the rash and harmful decision of using the highly unsanitary restroom facilities that litter the Vietnamese and Cambodian countryside.

"Irrational Response": Whilst traveling, one can relieve stress or lighten the mood by joking with or playfully insulting their fellow travelers. Often times, though, the recipient of such banter is not in the mood to be joked with or insulted, provoking an "irrational response." This typically involves a rash comment or physical action from the recipient of inappropriate proportion to the mild abuse received. This is especially entertaining during card games that involve drinking, as an "irrational response" can lead to high consumption of alcohol.

Stay tuned for more trip slang as it develops.

Thursday, May 31, 2007

An Essay on Hawking

Hawking is a traditional Asian sport where individuals, usually men, spend their lives training hawks, the ultimate birds of prey, to obey their commands.
As we walked through an overpass in Hong Kong we saw "No Hawking" signs, so we did not set our birds on small prey.
It was not until we had to deal with the streets of Hong Kong that we understood what "Hawking" truly meant: men, women, and children on every corner trying to sell their various goods.
We were most often offered watches, "copy watches," to be exact. "You want Rolex, copy watch? Rolex? Rolex? Breightling? Rolex? Copy Watch?" Our days were also filled with offers of "massages," suits - tailored suits - healthy young girls, and food. The offers we received were increasingly less family friendly as the day progressed into night.
Our last experience in Hong Kong was spent on the street waiting for a bus to the airport and being hawked at; we hated every scorchingly hot minute of it.
Singapore was a haven from hawkers, we were safe.
From the first minute in Vietnam, hawkers attacked us. From streets, buildings, while on buses, in taxis, eating meals: everywhere. As we sat at lunch the first day, devouring plates and plates and plates of food for a total of 250,000 Dong - about $3.20 per person - a constant stream of vendors came into the restaurant. Never have I seen such aggressive peddlers. They entered, heard our polite rejections, and still presented goods. Sunglasses which bent, Zippo lighters, magazines, trashy novels; the junk we import from these countries over here that white trash families buy at Wal-mart en gross. Getting them away from the table took multiple "No, thank you's" and eventually just ignoring them while they stood there. It didn't help that Gideon enjoyed diddling them, feigning interest in their trinkets.

An amendment to my original essay:
I admit it, I write my blogs in advance, I have a fear about posting before multiple revisions. So an experience in the meantime had to be added. While enjoying our final dinner in Vietnam a throng of incredibly young girls came by, trying to sell their items. No joke, a 7 year old girl came over and opened a case of cigarettes for us to buy and turned around angrily when we said we didn't smoke. I would not have been surprised if an infant had crawled up to our table and offered us an eighth.

Cambodia...

Well, we made it to Cambodia. I'm sitting at a computer in Phnom Penh right now, sweating like crazy, after some wild travels over the last few days.

We took off from Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City early two days ago, and made our way through the Delta over the course of the last two days, before crossing into Cambodia at about noon today. Most of our traveling has been by boat, though we have had a few random buses here and there.

Over the last two days, these boat rides, various excursions, bus rides, meals, and a hotel last night have cost us 26 USD as part of an excursion that our last hotel offered. Unbelievable.

Today, we were on the Mekong for about three hours in the smallest, gassiest boat of all time, then rode about two hours in a small van via a variety of dirt/mud/bumpy roads.

Then tonight, we got to Phnom Penh, checked into a hotel (with air conditioning) and ate dinner for $1/apiece at a small restaurant down the road. Coles and Evan had fried rice and beef, while Gideon and I had fried noodles with beef and an egg pancake. I'm not sure Westerners come here very often; we're getting some interesting looks.

All in all, everyone has been unbelievably nice. And Vietnam is truly a remarkable place. As we've traveled, every child we've seen has screamed "Hello!" and started waving, many of them as they bathed in the Mekong. We played with several of them this afternoon while we waited for our visas.

Three days ago, we went to the Cu Chi Tunnels, used by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War, just about 50km outside of Saigon. Our tour guide was a native of Saigon who fought for the Americans/South Vietnamese during the war. At one point he was stationed with John Kerry, and is apparently the man in that famous picture at the Saigon base taking down the American flag as U.S. GIs left in 1973.

This man and many others have outwardly reassured us -- without us even asking -- that we "should not be afraid" and that the Vietnamese do not have anything against Americans. A man who drives a rickshaw approached Coles the other day, and upon finding out where we were from, exclaimed: "I love America!" We also had a waiter the other night with whom we exchanged email addresses, because he is studying American culture and customs at a university in Saigon.

Yesterday, one of our tour guides came to us and said "I fought with the Americans as a communications officer in the war, so I am very happy to see you." Another asked us to return to the U.S. and tell people that the Vietnamese are very friendly and that Vietnam is a great place.

So, I am doing so. I'm not sure if these reactions would be replicated in northern Vietnam, but those were our experiences in the South. As we learn anytime we travel, it's the people that really matter, that you really have a natural connection with, regardless of history or government.

It's reassuring. And, in a way, very inspiring as well.

More to come once I stop sweating.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

From Pulau Ubin, off of Singap0re... we mountain biked to this quarry.

A new phrase

"4 Way Go"

In Saigon, it is customary when you come to a major intersection to never stop driving nor look in any direction before entering said intersection, mindless of all other cars, buses, motorbikes, and pedestrians.

Some thoughts on Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

To my family: I tried to call a couple of times and couldn't get through. I didn't leave messages because it was a little difficult because I was calling via computer. Happy Memorial Day.

It's 1:38am in HCMC and we're posting in the blog. Well, Gideon and I are. Evan and Coles went back to the hotel to play cards and drink a few beers.

A few thoughts on HCMC:
1) The traffic is unbelievable. No rules, whatsoever. When you want to cross, you just go, and "sidle" your way through cars and motos. When you are driving, you just go and "sidle" your way through cars and motos. We took videos and pictures to show everyone soon.
2) Everything is cheap. Hotel: $5. Lunch: $2. Dinner: $4. A day on $10? Priceless.
3) The food is great, but you have to be careful what you choose. We are in a backpackers' area, so we had to fight to find a place where the locals eat. I had some kind of noodles/spring roll combo for dinner.
4) A 1.5 liter water is just 60 cents USD. Unbelievable when you are sweating like you never have before.
5) A beer is just 20 cents USD. Unbelievable when you are tired at the end of a day.

It's pretty crazy to be here on Memorial Day, just 35-40 years after so many Americans fought and lost their lives here. We went to the War Museum this afternoon and were interested to see the Vietnamese view on the conflict of the late '60s and early '70s. Their view is pretty negative, though we have seen no ramifications at all from anyone we have met. It's rare to not meet someone who responds to a smile or is ready to help you, whether you appear American or not.

We hope everyone enjoys a nice three-day weekend. For us, it's about time for bed. As you go about the day, as we have tried to do, please remember the sacrifice and service of our troops around the world.

Love to all.

My first blog ever

So it may come as a surprise to some of you, but I managed to catch a movie last night while on a once in a lifetime trip to SE Asia, I never forget my priorities. Maybe it was the 4 years of film classes and a failed minor which makes it impossible for me not to use the movie to draw parallels to the trip, but here goes...
Coles, Joey, and I saw Pirates 3 last night, Gideon stayed strong and is waiting for his lady friend. W/O spoiling the film, it partially takes place in Singapore, coincidentally where we saw it. Bruckheimer and Disney managed to include every Asian Stereotype I can think of, portraying them as small, Kung-Fu proficient, accented-English speaking, sneaky, oh, and did I say small? minor characters. Sitting in a theater with 250 Asians and us, three white kids from the U.S., this should have been an awkward 2h 55min. To my surprise, however, the crowd cheered, laughed, and seemed to take no offense to the way they were depicted by the American filmmakers.
This has generally been the case for the past week or so, genuinely nice people everywhere we go. Men and women have more often than not approached us when we looked lost and given us directions and advice with nothing expected in return. While we are often "those guys," sticking out and attracting due attention, everyone is tolerant and patient. The always efficient and friendly manner in which we are served food, accomodated at hostels, and helped in our transport endeavors has been a pleasant surprise.
In buying tickets to the movie last night we were able to choose our seats via a monitor before going in, amazing. This system, as Gideon pointed out, puts people first over money. We turned down a showing in which there were only front row seats available for a later show which had better seats, leaving seats to the earlier show unsold. Back home, they would sell seats until they were all gone, regardless if it forced you to sit alone in the front right corner, away from your fellow patrons. Furthermore, soda and popcorn (large) was a manageable 5 or 6 Singapore dollars; equal purchases back in the States would have easily been double or more: again an example of human comfort and convenience over bottom line profit.
Lastly in this overly long first blog of mine is the theater urinals. Uncomfortable was an understatetement as they were aligned facing each other and crammed together so you had to sidle your way in just to stare face to face with someone else a foot in front of you. I couldn't help but think of the millions of apartments we had left behind in Hong Kong. People are stacked there as far as the eye can see, building after building of one room, squallored, dwellings. The inhabitants spend their days serving those more fortunate, less than one percent of the approximately 7 million strong population. Scenes from the Matrix, with endless immobile people being sucked dry for sustenance by a superior entity come to mind, the busses and subways serving as the conduits for their labor, which makes possible all of the spotless restrooms, polished floors, gleaming windows, and our always smiling faces throughout the trip.

My thoughts on HK and Singapore as I sit in our hotel in Vietnam, hopefully more to come.

Straight mess

We have entered the mess that s known as Ho Chih Minh City, and to no surprise it did not disappoint. Following a surprisingly uneventful immigration/customs experience we found our way to the bus, which brought us to our "hotel". Though the nicest of the places we have stayed, by no means luxury. For $5.50 a night we each get our own bed in our own room, a/c, breakfast, and free internet(s) - as they call it, quite a deal. We visited many of the historic sites, the war remnants museum (it seems they remember the war slightly different than we do, apparently didn't appreciate the use of agent orange), reunification palace, and 1700s Pagoda, with Buddhist monks chanting harmonious tunes. There was some serious flooding in the city tody - which bothered nobody, and we have finished the night with a number of Saigon beers. Tomorrow we are heading to over 2000 km of caves, that were used during the war to move Vietnamese soldiers. The following day (Wednesdat) we head to the Mekong River for a two day stroll up the river ito Cambodia. I wanted to post incase we don't find internet access before then.


Today's editorial blog concerns:
THE FOOD SITUATION, THE DAILY HO CHIH MINH MARKET, AND, BOWEL MOVEMENTS:

Let me start by saying the food here is unbelievable. Day after day of sucueltn beefs, chickens, and muttons, grilled to your hearts desire. Combine that with grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms, and crazy green local tree like vegetable (affectionatly called trees by my family). Unlike Joey and my trip to Europe, we have been feasting here. We eat/live like kings. (for reference our hotel costs $5.50 a night, our meal today cost $2 each). While slightly grimy and a little hectic - we are living the dream.
Back to the focus of this blog: food. Today we stumbled upon the Ho Chih Minh Daily Market, which in addition to selling a variety of unneeded wears, knock off designer purses and other garb, and more stinky, filthy fish than one ever desires. The stench was unbelivable, the sites less than desireable and the general scene not completely hygenic. The confusion lies in the fact that somehow the food moves from the market to our restaurants and we do not get sick. We are have been slightly in picking and choosing what we eat, but up til this point no one has had a serious case of the shits (pardon the fould language - I apoplogize - par for the course). Tums, pepto, z-pack, have been yet to be used which is quite impressive - and speaks toe the quality of the food and cooking ways of Southeast Asia. Needless to say, we have been impressed and content with this turn of events. More to come on this subject as we head into the wilds of vietnam and cambodia - we are ready with immodium...

Finally, the shaving situation must be discussed:
Joey takes the dissapointing claim of first to shave. Though it must be noted that Joey grows the fastes of the fellas on this trip his early exit was premature and unwarrented. He could have atleast shaved a goatee or mustache for a few days of hilariousness - c'mon we are in asia.

Evan and I are in the next pack - those that have decent facial growth and are yet to shave. The itchiness at some points have got to both of us, but we ave held strong. Weirdly enough, my growth comes naturally in the form of a goatee - one moto driver gave me the thumbs up for the goatee, we'll see how it works out. Evan have some patchy growth, but seems to be ahead of me in the growth comeptition.

Fianlly Coles hassome less growth, but weirdly enough was the only one to bing a razer. Should either Evan or I faulter, we will be forced to turn to Coles razer...This could be his key to winning - slow growth and the temptation of his razor...again more updates to follow..


As we head out to jungle, this could be last post for a few days...hope all have enjoyed..move to follow.

Gideon

Monday, May 28, 2007

About to leave for the mess

One last blog before we board our flight to Saigon (what we call Ho Chi Minh City). I am currently utilizing the free internet conveniently provided at the gate. We are yet to pay for internet on the trip - quite an accomplishment. Coles is enjoying a Singaporian cheesew muffin, while others relax. The plan for today in Vietnam is to visit the War remenants museum, re-unification palace, tunnels outside of city, and stop in at travel agnecy to pursue crazy trips to the delta.

For those keeping track at home - all of our intestinal activities are still functioning correctly. Time will tell if that continues...

Gideon

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Checking in Again - Onwards towards the Jungle

Gideon here, checking in again as we prepare to head straight into the mess. Our first two stops, Hong Kong and Singapore, have been relatively tame - but now we head straight into the mess. As Joey has mentioned, it is beyond hot, sweaty, and humid. I have personally gone with the wear a shirt/short/underwear combo until they positively cannot be worn anymore, then retiring them until we find some laundry opportunities...working out so far, more updates in due time.
The tentative plan is to spend 4 days in Vietnam, followed by 4 days in Cambodia, until we finally reach the promised land (great beaches, adventures, relatively clean, and moden) - otherwise known as Thailand, where we plan to spend 12 days. We will finish up the trip with 4 days in Malaysia before flying returning to the states.
Quite a bit of a queue here for the Internet at the hostel so I need to sign off - but hopefully more to come soon.

Gideon

Conclusion - Singapore

It's 8:20pm out here and still near to 90 degrees F... Sitting at a computer at our hostel.

Last night we got into Singapore at about 5pm, checked into our hostel, then wandered toward Little India. We were exhausted, so it took a little bit of effort. The hostel is fine, but not exactly as advertised -- the AC runs off and on, and the "rooftop bar" has been turned into a series of bunk beds. We shared a room with two guys from Japan, one of whom spoke good English and was a cool person to talk to. He was in month 5 of travel, returning to Tokyo in August. I wish we had that kind of time.

We ended up eating in a random, hole-in-the-wall restaurant where we were the only non-Indians. Everybody was local. We looked at the menu, couldn't read it, then just rolled the dice and pointed at a few things. It ended up being very good, and certainly wild to be four white American kids in the middle of a packed restaurant of local Singaporeans of Indian descent.

The room was hot last night. I slept pretty well, but woke up in the morning sweating. Coles couldn't sleep because of sounds from the fan, so he turned it off; Evan wanted to kill him. I was close behind. Kidding, kidding.

Today we took an old oil rig out to an island nearby and mountain biked for about 3 hours in the morning. The island is largely deserted, with one main village near the "port." I've never sweated so much in my life.

After that, we went to the Zoo and watched them feed the Komodo dragons (last Sunday of every month). They had a wide variety of animals, and the Zoo was laid out in such a way that you were very close, which was awesome.

Then, we came back into town (after some bus/subway confusion) and walked old Singapore for a while, including the Raffles Hotel. Our dinner was a 6-course meal at a Chinese restaurant for $5/person. Again, not quite sure what we ate, but it was good.

And tonight, before we fly to Vietnam and the wild, we are seeing Pirates of the Caribbean 3. It was filmed in Singapore, so we figure it is appropriate.

A taxi picks us up at 5am tomorrow and we fly at 7:25 to Ho Chi Minh City. Then, who knows. We don't have a place to stay yet.

Hope everybody is well. At some point one of these other jokers will leave their thoughts as well.

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Hong Kong Airport

Well, we figured out how to invite everybody else to post on the blog, so tonight there will be posts from everybody, I think.

We bought a Diet Coke at a random stand in the airport and thus get to use their Internet before we fly to Singapore in about a half an hour. Should be interesting.

It's hot as hell here. And humid. Sweating is the norm. Heavily.

Last night we had Indian food on the third floor of a random apartment building. We were accosted as we walked in by four different restaurants, and chose as we saw fit. It was pretty good food and an interesting atmosphere.

All told, we each spent about $50 (not counting hostels -- $11/night) in Hong Kong, I believe. Not bad.

Not sure that I could ever live here, but really glad that we came. Pretty unbelievable.

Yesterday we took a ferry to an island near Hong Kong Island (Lan Tau) and saw a big Buddha after a pretty serious bus ride with some crazy views.

Tonight, hopefully we'll get some pictures up on the blog tonight. Love to all.

Friday, May 25, 2007

First full day

Gideon checking in for the first time. We started with traditional Chinese breakfast - fried noodles and bamboo shoots at 9:30 am (Coles had fired eggs and hotdog). We then proceeded to se a number of world records today - including the largest outdoor, bronze, sitting Buddha on Lantau island, and the Guiness Book of World Records acclaimed largest runing outodoor laser light and music show of Hong Kong...we are being booted for bot consuming beverages at the coffee shop, hopefully more to come soon. FYI Coles stuck his credit card in the pay phone and was charged $10 connection fee - note to all do not do again

Gideon

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Apparently I have more time...

Well, apparently we have more time. Gideon is writing to Cat (his girlfriend) at the computer next to me. It is taking a little while.

So, Evan, Coles and I are posting this message. Like I said, we are on Nathan Road in Hong Kong. Coles just ran to the bathroom after that meal that we ate a few minutes ago. I thought it was awesome. Uh oh... Getting kicked out because we have to be "customers" in this coffee shop to use the computer.

Will hit Victoria Peak tomorrow. For tonight, a beer looking over the bay at the best skyline in the world.

Gideon's realtor just sent him an email that said: "Hello, I'm glad meet nice people. I keep promise hold for you." Nice.

In Hong Kong

We made it... More to come. Just had our first meal: wonton soup for $1 at a street stand. Sitting pretty well so far. Our hostel is at 58 Nathan Street in Kowloon, across the bay from Hong Kong Island. This place is like New York on steroids; I've never seen anything like it. Love to all.

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

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Some departing words.

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Our last american tv for a while... I wish the spurs would lose.

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Jet blue to new york - coles is already in his traditional bored airplane flying style ... Staring off into space.

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Coles is ready to go ... On our way to new york.

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Friday, February 23, 2007